Some photos from customers. (Click for larger view)
Do it yourself - 14 Bolt Disc Swap
STEPS TO FOLLOW
Assuming that your axle is under your vehicle and not on a bench, as mine was, loosen lugnuts if you do not have a good set of pneumatic tools. Jack up the rear of your vehicle and place it on jack stands or blocks (VERY IMPORTANT TO BE STABLE). Now remove your wheels.
Now remove the differential cover bolts to drain the gear oil. Then remove the bolts on the hubs that hold in the axles (You will get a little fluid so have a catch pan ready). Now you can pull both of the axles out from the housing. The hub nuts require a specialty socket to remove them (but it has been done with a punch or screwdriver). To the right is a picture of the socket. You will also need to pry the star washer between the nuts that is locking the hub nuts from backing off.
Pull off the hub-drum assemblies. Now go ahead and take off the backing plates. You may have to remove the brake shoe clips to get to all four bolts that hold on the backing plate. If you are going keep the E-brake on your disc conversion you might want to keep the cables to modify, but I chose to use a line lock or rolling lock for my E-brake.
Let's take a look at the
take a brass drift punch
to knock the wheel studs that hold the
HEAVY drums to the hubs. After you separate these HEAVY drums from the hubs, you can take the drums to your nearest dumpster-LOL. Now take your new rotors out of the boxes and put them on the back of the hubs, just like the drums were on there. Take your studs and put them in all the holes where they were and take the "drift punch" and knock them back in, making sure that they are all the way in and that there is no gap between the hub flange and the rotor (very important). If your using Aluminum rims use Dorman Part no.610-301 they are longer which allows you to use more threads for proper lug torque.
Now that the hubs ready to
go back on, you'll need to
put on the brackets that hold
on your calipers. When
putting the bracket on, angle
it toward the rear bumper.
Take the four spacers and
put them between the bracket and the 4 bolt flange where the backing plate was bolted to and torque them down.
Now that the caliper
bracket is installed on
the axle, you can put
on the rotor-hub
assemblies. After you
put them on the axle,
install the nuts that
hold the hub on with
the locking collar
between them. Bend the collar tabs to lock the nuts to keep them from working loose. Spin the hub to seat the bearings and to ensure you did not over tighten the bearings.
Now it's time to put the axles back in. After that is done you can go ahead and begin to put the caliper on the bracket. When that is mounted on the bracket you can attach the brake lines. Where the hard line went across the housing to the wheel cylinders cut it to the length desired and re-flare it with installing the male Chevy end of the 3/16 fitting that is used on the front lines. Now you can bleed your brakes and go to your local parking lot to make sure they are COMPLETELY bled. In some cases a "Proportioning Valve" is needed to dial the pressure to the brakes desired.