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Some photos from customers. (Click for larger view)
I guess I'll start with the "specifics" of the materials that I used to make my "draglinks/tie rods" out of. I used a very thick wall DOM tubing for all of the steering "linkages". It is 1.25 x .313 wall thick in size and it is even possible to "sleeve" this with a piece of 1.5 in of DOM but it is seldom needed. The only advantage to the "sleeved" version would be if you left your "tie rod" in it's "stock" position that would make it vulnerable to hit any obstacle you may be trying to go over or through. I used the Chevy 7/8's tie rod ends which are very strong and are often found on many 4x4's. The tie rods that are commonly used are from the 85-86 Blazer.
Others have made "draglinks/tie rods" using the 23mm tie rod ends from the Toyota FJ80 which are a common swap because they are a larger in size comparison to most of the stock Toyota tie rods. These are often used when doing (Cross Over/Hi-Steer) on a (SAS) "Solid Axle Swap". Below I will list the Part #'s of the tie rod ends that are commonly used along with pictures to help you out. I will list the GM part #'s for the studs, conical washers, and stover nuts that GM used for many years so you can get them.
There are two different kinds of cross over steering. The first way is what they call "standard" cross over which has one separate rod for both the draglink and the tie rod. The second type is what they call a "inverted T" this has the draglink attached to the tie rod before it connects to the arm. This is similar in design as the Ford F-100 during the 76-79 years.
Regular Cross Over steering on a "Currie 9in." front axle!
Cross Over and Hi Steer on the same axle!
Inverted T style on a jeep
Doing this will solve all of your bent steering linkage problems while playing off road.
7/8 TRW Part #'s
23mm "outer" 93 FJ80 Part #'s
GM part #'s to use
GM stud kits
Price: $33.00 each